Need help with JRSC'ed B18C1 boosting 6 psi in a crx.

[Hites]

what im mainly concerned about is fuel management; im tackling the fitment issues elsewhere. i dont have the budget to use hondata, or the talent to use uberdata; so my best bet is either larger injectors or a larger fuel pump. jr says that you dont need anything at all to run it smoothly, but id rather be safe than sorry. i have a jr btc, jr fmu, boost gauge, and af gauge; im planning on getting a jr map controller and an electric fuel pressure gauge. what ive listed above should be sufficient to keep my engine safe enough and in my tight budget. what i want to know is what fuel pump or injectors i should get. im not planning on boosting above 6 psi, just for the sake of sanity and reliability. would i get a walbro in tank fuel pump for a crx or an integra? which pump? or would i just get larger injectors? if so, what size?

[gsrteggie]

You can get a Walbro fuel pump if you want to be safe. Most guys here use the high output 342 model (Including myself). Some may say the 342 is a overkill for 6psi, or they dont like the noise or the pickup, but I have no problems, and I run 6psi, and have plenty of fuel. I do recommend the map mod. I am also putting on a BTC so i can run stock/increased timing.

As for larger injectors, you dont need them. Only when you start going to 8 psi+ do you need larger injectors. Most guys back in the day did larger injectors in order to run stock/lower fuel pressures when they did larger pullies

[Hites]

yeah, ive heard the 342 is an overkill, but will it make me run rich?

[Hites]

parts list:

crx
b18c long block
hasport engine mounts
integra ls auto tranny
auto p72 ecu
automatic interior pieces
level 10 torque convertor
level 10 stp kit
jr map controller
walbro 342 fuel pump
electronic fuel pressure gauge
taller hood
axles?

well, what did i forget or get wrong? [img]confused.gif[/img]
its going to be harder than hell to do this with $6-7k. can get a crx for $1500 and ive found a b18c long block for $1k; there goes the high dollar items [img]smile.gif[/img]

<font color="#a62a2a" size="1">[ November 14, 2003 08:38 PM: Message edited by: Hites ]</font>

[JRCivic]

Why AUTOMATIC ???
Also, do you have any idea how much WIRING must be done to accomplish what you intend to do ???

Lastly, the Walbro GSS-342 does NOT fit directly into the tank of a 4G ('88-91) Civic or CRX... in fact, the tank must be REMOVED to swap out the fuel pump... and modifications WILL be necessary to make an aftermarket fuel pump work... including any in the Walbro family.

Good luck.

[CROM]

Hites you just took about 20 steps forward on your project as far as difficulty goes.

Like Jim said, you went from a feasible project idea to practically impossible. And why for the love of Altezza Tail Lights and Type R stickers would you even consider going Automatic?

Plus, an Auto tranny for a B-Series is gonna run you atleast 1200-1500 bucks. They are hard as balls to find, and most out there are already gonna be broken. And speaking from experience, the Acura auto tranny is garbage!!! They aren't made for racing or driving even close to hard for that matter.

[gsrteggie]

forgot this was a crx... hehehe

Anyways....

My buddy did a b16 tarnny swap for his GSR. It is the same tranny as the type R (minus LSD) from what I'm told. What I would recommend, if you go b16 tranny, is to get a GSR 5th gear, so you are not crusing at 5K at 80mph. And speaking of LSD, while it's out, get a type-r LSD (or any LSD). You will beed a ring gear prolly if you go type-r. AT a minimum, go Phantom Grip. 20k+ on my PG, no problems.

On the other hand, having the gears so close together is mostly beneficial for NA applications. If you are boosting, you want a GSR tranny (or if you have alot of HP, an LS tranny). Alot of guys with b16's go the GSR route. GSR tranny's go at a premium in some parts of the country.

However, if you are a baller on a budget, the b16 can be used. It just is not ideal IMO.

<font color="#a62a2a" size="1">[ November 15, 2003 08:45 PM: Message edited by: gsrteggie ]</font>

[Hites]

b18c tranny it is. with the budget i planned out when i was going the auto way, i had about $1500 planned for the auto tranny. now that im going the manual way, im planning on spending about $650 on a 7.5 lb flywheel and a centerforce clutch kit; so that frees up $850 for a gsr tranny on my same budget.

now back to my fuel management: what should i get? remember: ive got a jr fmu, jr btc, boost gauge, af gauge; and im planning on getting a jr map controller and an electric fuel pressure gauge.

[Hites]

all your advise is to be followed. in other words: auto out, manual in. i guess trying to be unique and putting in an auto tranny is just way too much trouble for what its worth. was trying to make an "auto-sleeper". honestly, this is going to help my project greatly; gonna ditch the $800 worth of level 10 auto tranny accessories, $300 ecu, $100 worth of interior pieces, and ill have the fitment issues cleared up. now... why didnt i do this in the first place [img]confused.gif[/img] ? dont know, dont care. so, should i get a b16 tranny (shorter gears)? or is it not strong enough to handle my application? is the b18c tranny beefier and better for my application? depending on what tranny i should get, what should i get with it to get the most out of it? im looking for something smooth and affordable. if youve ever driven an svt focus, you know how smooth i want it to be.

<font color="#a62a2a" size="1">[ November 15, 2003 04:19 PM: Message edited by: Hites ]</font>

[Hites]

Originally posted by Hites:
b18c tranny it is. with the budget i planned out when i was going the auto way, i had about $1500 planned for the auto tranny.

now back to my fuel management: what should i get? remember: ive got a jr fmu, jr btc, boost gauge, af gauge; and im planning on getting a jr map controller and an electric fuel pressure gauge.

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